I am hot. I am tired. And worst of all, like one of the many dead cows along the side of the road I am covered in flies. Perhaps they are attracted to a weeks worth of sweat? My clothes are heavier (and smellier) than normal. No, this is Mexico. Even those who shower daily are swarmed with flies. Everything is. What about the knats you ask? Well, when I dropped my drawers to use the deserts version of the mens room… lets just leave it at this: I felt violated. Ants in your pants? Not this time.
Since leaving Guerrero Negro, we are witnessing the devastating aftermath of Hurican Odile. We passed through the town of San Ignacio, once a beautiful desert oasis. We stopped in a hotel for information and water. There a woman showed us the high water mark: 1.5 meters up a window that sits atop a flight of steps. Outside, a man with a shovel chips at ruined floor tiles. The roads have only recently been cleared. They are lined with debris, sidewalks are gone along with entire sections of the road itself. And nearly a three weeks after the hurricane, the town is still without wifi. Oh, the horror!!!
Last night, we sought high ground for our desert camp. The outer reaches of a new storm, Hurricane Simon, are upon us. We set up our tents – the first time in weeks – and watched the sun set over a volcano. I used every stake I carry. We cooked rice and beans for dinner watching lighting light up the skies over distant mountains. The wind began as we retired into our tents for the night. The rain sometime later as we attempted to sleep. There is tension in the air. I imagine ancient soldiers on a battlefield and think this must be how they felt; waiting; wondering if and when their foe will arrive.
Now, having survived the night, we are in Santa Rosalia on the Sea of Cortez. The beaches here are covered in garbage. More evidence of Odile. We find a “real” restaurant. Felix orders food. Solo cafe for me. The prices here on Baja are as expensive as in the States. Sometimes even worse. Wifi works and I am able to make some phone calls.
Lately, I think of home and what I would be doing. I love fall in Pittsburgh. It’s my favorite time of year. I would be in the woods. Most likely with a bow waiting on food for the next few months. I miss the taste of venison. I miss my friends and I miss showers. I feel so gross. Whose idea was this again!?!
Below are photos of San Ignacio after Odile.